I have it in direct sunlight in the morning and then indirect in the afternoon. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Hi, Well why not indeed? Roses are beautful and so addictive to want to have any way you can have them: How long have you had the roses? How big are the four you have and how big is the pot you have them in? Advice on how to continue should you fertilize them now and what to do when they finish blooming, and maybe a period of rest of dormancy is something someone else can tell you.
First I think is the fact of the heat in the house in the winter. If it's working for you, the light and they're actively growing in the light you have them in, why question then whether you can or not?
Apparently if they've stopped yellowing you've figured out the watering correctly. Roses don't like sitting in water. I'm not your growing in a pot expert, I'm just stopping in and saying hi and chatting with you and throwing some ideas at you what you might volunteer that someone else might need to know to help you out more.
The biggest thing is to make sure your roses aren't under or near a heat register or vent. There are some other people who are much more experience rose gardeners than I am and work with roses in pots that should be popping in to offer you some advice, just be patient, sounds like you're doing fine. I'll still be out there checking in. Welcome to growing mini roses. I'm one of the folks who posted something at least I did eons ago about the problems with growing parade roses.
I did get them to grow indoors -- one reached over 3 feet tall. Unfortunately, I gave up because of the problems that I had with pest and disease issues -- recurring onslaughts of spider mites, black spot, rust and powdery mildew. I think a lot had to do with the environment. The house is fairly dry and even with a full southern exposure, I'm not sure that the plants had as much sun as they would have liked.
Ultimately, the constant need to use chemical sprays for houseplants that I hate using indoors particularly when you can't leave the windows open just to keep five green ish leaves on a very tall set of green twigs far outweighed the benefits. Incidentally, this isn't necessarily a knock against Parade Roses as uniquely susceptible to diseases. I've kept other varieties over-winter in the house and faced similar pest and disease issues, although the Parade roses might have been a little weaker.
If you don't overwater and repot when necessary, they will survive indoors. Still, who knows? Your mileage may vary. POLL: Best bedroom view? Hearst Castle. Those Parade roses are sold as temporary, disposable table decorations, not expecting customers to cultivate them long-term.
The growers root a few cuttings for each pot in some kind of spongy medium, get them blooming inside a greenhouse and ship them out for sale.
There is no way, in my opinion, for them to get enough natural sunlight indoors to thrive and rebloom. An indoor grow-light with the correct spectrum for plants is needed. I know someone who grows minis under grow-lights in his basement all winter and they bloom well. They are certainly overcrowded in the pot you got them in. Gently repot them in good quality potting soil into a larger container. By the way, I have had good results growing three colors of Parade roses outdoors, both in pots and in the ground.
They seem to thrive in our mild climate here, with large, long-lasting blooms. Be very sparing with fertilizer on potted mini roses -- water well first and only use half the strength of the package directions. Best of luck! I agree with everything everyone has said but just want to add to what jpw said about the bugs. There aren't any predators inside so the bad guys take over. Even trying to grow roses in a sunny screened in area amounts to the same thing If you are new to growing roses growing them inside seems like more of a challenge than you are ready to handle.
I just purchased a miniature Parade Rose. There was no other name on a label. Has several hefty blooms and buds on it. The majority of parade roses will be 12 to 18 inches tall. How you plan to use the roses will determine the cultivar you should plant. The smallest roses would be the best for small containers or window boxes, while the medium varieties would make good borders or large container plants.
There are two main types of parade roses currently sold. Garden roses are a slower-growing variety of rose geared more toward longevity. Garden roses come in more colors and sizes than the florist roses. Florist roses were bred with more of an eye toward multiple plants that would survive shipping and a lengthy stay on store shelves without losing their looks. The florist roses have slightly larger blooms and are usually sold potted for indoor enjoyment, though they can also be planted outdoors.
Giving roses a rest period in winter will prolong the life and health of the plants. Keep them cool during this time. They're cold-hardy, but if you're growing miniature roses outdoors, protect them from freezing temperatures by covering them with a layer of mulch. Move container-grown roses to a basement or garage for the winter so that roots don't freeze.
Miniature rose plants are just as susceptible to the same ailments that afflict any other roses. Damp conditions can cause blackspot to develop on the leaves.
It's a fungus that needs to be treated right away. Cut off affected leaves and treat foliage with a fungicide specially made for blackspot. Good air ventilation will help to prevent fungus.
Fortunately, newer rose hybrids are more and more resistant to diseases. Yellow leaves that drop off can be a symptom of a few things. Lack of sunlight, dry soil, and dry air will cause roses to shed their leaves.
Resuming good care of miniature roses will help them recover. Water: Water thoroughly and allow the top 1 in 2. Keep soil barely moist in winter. Avoid getting water on the leaves, which can cause blackspot. Use a humidity tray or a cool-mist room humidifier. Rose buds that shrivel up before opening may be suffering in the dry air of a heated home. Prune off the shriveled buds and raise the humidity around the plant. Moving the plant outdoors may be just the cure.
This can sometimes be tricky but a good rule of thumb is one deep watering per week for average climates. If your weather is unusually hot and dry, then you may need to check them every 4 to 5 days. You should also give your Charming Parade roses a dose of an all-purpose granular fertilizer in the early spring when the leaves start to form.
Since this is a repeat bloomer like most miniature roses, you might want to give it a few additional feedings over the course of the growing season. I will usually give my roses a second feeding just after the first big bloom, and then a third around the middle of summer. Your rose Charming Parade will do well on this schedule as well. You should prune your rose Charming Parade in the early spring before the leaves start to form.
Start by removing all the dead wood, along with any canes that are discolored. Lastly, cut the remaining canes back about one third of their current height to encourage new growth. This is also the time to clean up around the base of your Charming Parade roses and get rid of all the dead leaves and debris.
Throw all this material away in the trash, along with your cuttings. Never let decaying matter lay around the base of your roses. Finish up by giving your rose Charming Parade a fresh new layer of mulch to start off the growing season.
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